If your appraisal came in low, your lender lends against the lower of the price or the appraised value, so the gap closes one of three ways: the seller drops the price, you split it, or you bring the difference in cash, which doesn’t count toward your down payment. An appraisal contingency lets you renegotiate or walk away under its terms. File a reconsideration of value with better comparable sales as a parallel track, not the plan.
Example terms: a $427,500 Conventional 30-year fixed loan (5% down on a $450,000 purchase) at 7.490% interest, 7.880% APR, is repaid in 360 monthly payments of $2,986.22 for principal and interest. Payments do not include taxes and insurance premiums, so the actual payment obligation will be greater. Monthly mortgage insurance is added until it is removed. Includes 0.026% in discount points ($111). Purchase of a $450,000 single-family primary residence in Chesterfield County, Virginia; 740 credit score; 30-day rate lock; debt-to-income under 43%. Loan amounts are base loans; where an upfront FHA premium or VA funding fee is financed, it is added on top and the payment is figured on the total. Payments are principal and interest only. Terms as of November 9, 2026. Other numbers on this page are illustrations, not offers. Any rate shown on this site is an example. Rates may change or may not be available at the time of loan commitment or lock-in. More example terms and APR.
Jump to a section
- How does a home appraisal work?
- Who orders it, who pays, and how long it takes
- What the appraiser looks at
- Appraisal came in lower than the offer? What happens to your loan and cash
- Appraisal came in low, now what? What to do, in order
- Should I ask for a reconsideration of value?
- What is an appraisal waiver?
- My appraisal came in high. What does that mean?
- Appraisal came in low on new construction or a VA loan?
If your appraisal came in lower than your offer, it feels like the deal is dying. It isn’t dead. A low appraisal changes the math, and there’s a clear order for what to do next. Below is how appraisals work, what a short value does to your loan and your cash, and the steps I take when one lands.
How does a home appraisal work?
The appraisal is the lender’s check that the house is worth the money it’s lending. It isn’t yours to order and it isn’t your agent’s: the lender’s team places the order with an appraisal management company, which assigns an independent appraiser who works for neither the bank nor me.
That separation is deliberate. Before 2008, some loan officers called appraisers and asked for a target number. The system was rebuilt so I can’t pick the appraiser or lean on them, and anything that looks like pressure gets flagged. It protects you, too: the value on your report is somebody’s honest read, not a number someone needed.
For a typical house the method is comparable sales. The appraiser finds similar homes that sold nearby, often looking back 6, 12 and 18 months, adjusts for the differences, notes whether the market is steady or declining, and lands on a market value. Appraisers aren’t out to kill deals. Their job is to tell the lender what the house would bring.
Who orders it, who pays, and how long it takes
On a complete file, my standard is to order the appraisal within a day of a ratified contract, and the order needs the fully signed contract and every addendum in the file first.
On my files you pay when it’s ordered. An invoice shows up, and the appraiser won’t schedule until it’s paid, so pay it the day you see it. The fee is part of your closing costs either way. Paying early only starts the clock sooner. Around Richmond, the appraisals on my files have usually run about $450 to $600, with a rush closer to $750. If the deal falls apart, that money is gone, and the next house needs its own appraisal.
Most reports come back in about 7 to 10 days on my files, and a rush can be back in 3 or 4. The appraisal is the biggest single factor in your closing date, because underwriting can’t finish until it’s in. If it’s going to land after a deadline in your contract, ask your agent about an extension early. The delay isn’t on your side.
- Ratified contract
The paperwork goes in the file
The order needs the fully signed contract and every addendum in the file first.
- Within a day
Appraisal ordered
An invoice shows up, and the appraiser won’t schedule until it’s paid, so pay it the day you see it.
- About 7 to 10 days later
The report comes back
That’s most reports on my files. A rush can be back in 3 or 4 days.
- After the report
Underwriting can finish
If the report will land after a deadline in your contract, ask your agent about an extension early.
There’s a judgment call on timing. If your inspection or a septic test could end the deal, I’d rather you get through those first than pay for an appraisal on a house you might walk away from. If the house is solid and the calendar is tight, we order it on day one.
What the appraiser looks at
Comparable sales have to actually be comparable. The appraiser is matching on:
- Status. A resale is compared with resales, not with new construction. They aren’t the same product.
- Distance. Close by, in the same market. A house 16 miles away in a different market isn’t a comp.
- Size and layout. Square footage, bedrooms, bathrooms, stories.
- Condition and features. The appraiser photographs every bedroom and bathroom and adjusts for condition and upgrades.
Three or four close sales usually carry the report. A few places this trips people up:
- Extra land doesn’t add one for one. Paying $20,000 more for a bigger lot doesn’t mean the appraiser adds $20,000. If your contract includes an extra parcel, make sure the report includes it and shows the full acreage.
- Unusual homes are hard to comp. A barndominium or other one-of-a-kind house has few sales to compare, which makes the value and the eventual resale harder. Before you buy land for a custom build, ask how many similar homes have sold nearby.
- The appraiser’s eyes beat the county record. If the county lists a house as site-built but the appraiser sees a manufactured home with additions built around it, the appraiser’s read controls, and financing can change completely. Confirm the property type before you fall in love.
The report also tells you whether the value is “as is” or “subject to.” As is means the value stands on the house as it sits. Subject to means the value assumes repairs or completion, and those items become conditions that have to be done and confirmed before you close.
Appraisal came in lower than the offer? What happens to your loan and cash
Lenders measure your loan against the lower of the price or the appraised value. A low appraisal doesn’t change your contract price by itself. It changes what the lender will lend against, which is why the price gets renegotiated. And any cash you bring to cover the gap between price and value doesn’t count toward your down payment. The lender counts none of it.
Here’s a $400,000 contract that appraises at $390,000, with a buyer who planned to put 20% down:
| What the seller does | Price | Loan (80% of the $390,000 value) | Cash you bring for the price | Versus your plan |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cuts to the appraised value | $390,000 | $312,000 | $78,000 | $2,000 less |
| Splits the gap | $395,000 | $312,000 | $83,000 | $3,000 more |
| Holds at the contract price | $400,000 | $312,000 | $88,000 | $8,000 more |
Hypothetical. Your original plan was $80,000 down and a $320,000 loan. Closing costs are on top of these figures.
Notice the loan is the same in every row. With 20% down measured on the appraised value, the only thing the negotiation moves is your cash. Keep the original $320,000 loan instead and you’re at about 82% loan-to-value, which brings in mortgage insurance.
- Down payment, 20% of the $390,000 value
- Gap cash the lender doesn't count
Seller cuts to $390,000, cash you bring $78,000
Seller splits the gap at $395,000, cash you bring $83,000
Seller holds at $400,000, cash you bring $88,000
Hypothetical, not a quote. The loan is $312,000, 80% of the $390,000 value, in every case. Your original plan was $80,000 down and a $320,000 loan. Closing costs are on top of these figures.
See the numbers
| Part | Amount | |
|---|---|---|
| Seller cuts to $390,000, cash you bring | Down payment, 20% of the $390,000 value | $78,000 |
| Seller cuts to $390,000, cash you bring | Gap cash the lender doesn't count | $0 |
| Seller cuts to $390,000, cash you bring | Total | $78,000 |
| Seller splits the gap at $395,000, cash you bring | Down payment, 20% of the $390,000 value | $78,000 |
| Seller splits the gap at $395,000, cash you bring | Gap cash the lender doesn't count | $5,000 |
| Seller splits the gap at $395,000, cash you bring | Total | $83,000 |
| Seller holds at $400,000, cash you bring | Down payment, 20% of the $390,000 value | $78,000 |
| Seller holds at $400,000, cash you bring | Gap cash the lender doesn't count | $10,000 |
| Seller holds at $400,000, cash you bring | Total | $88,000 |
The same logic runs at lower down payments. On a 5%-down plan for that $400,000 contract, the loan tops out at 95% of $390,000, or $370,500. If the seller holds the price, you bring $29,500 instead of $20,000. A lower value can also move you into a different mortgage insurance bracket, and on conventional loans the cap on seller credits shrinks with it. What happens to a seller credit you already negotiated depends on how it was written into the contract, which is why I settle that before the offer goes in.
Appraisal came in low, now what? What to do, in order
The best plan starts before the report lands. If the price is a stretch against the recent sales, we talk about it early and line up a fallback, so a short value isn’t a surprise. And I put every contract deadline on a calendar the day it’s ratified, because the leverage of an appraisal contingency only exists while it’s open.
When the value comes in short:
- Read the whole report before reacting. I pull five things from every report: the contract price, the appraised value, the gap between them, any conditions or repairs, and who the appraiser is. Then I check the underwriter’s conditions, because any corrections the lender wants from the appraiser show up there.
- Run every option’s numbers before anyone says yes. Price cut, split, cash, a different loan structure. Once someone tells the other side “that sounds great,” it’s hard to walk back.
- I call your agent first, so your options are ready when I call you. Your agent gets the facts and my plan. You get your options and three separate questions: what you want, what you’re willing to do, and what you’d accept. They’re different answers.
- Your agent takes a specific ask to the listing agent. Usually a price cut to the appraised value, with the report as proof if you choose to share it, and splitting the gap as the fallback.
- Rip the band-aid off, then wait. Get the news to the sellers quickly, then give them a day or two to sit with it before pressing.
- File a reconsideration of value as a parallel track if the report has real problems. Details below.
- If it can’t be fixed, your appraisal contingency is what lets you walk away under your contract’s terms. Your agent handles that paperwork and those deadlines.
Tyler’s take
Splitting a gap isn’t losing. Split that $10,000 gap and you keep $5,000 of cash in your pocket, while your loan doesn’t move at all. Know that you’re negotiating over cash, not loan, before the call.
Should I ask for a reconsideration of value?
A reconsideration of value is a written request, sent through your lender, asking the appraiser to take another look with better information. The rules are specific. On conventional and FHA loans you get one request per appraisal, it can include up to five comparable sales, and it goes through the lender, never straight to the appraiser. On FHA the lender can’t charge you for it, and it has to be resolved before closing. VA has its own version: a written request, made through your lender, with new sales data.
My take: in my experience ROVs don’t typically move the needle like we want them to. But when one does work, it solves the whole problem. So I file one as a single track running alongside the price conversation, never as the plan. And since you only get one, make it count. A strong request does more than say “please reconsider”:
- It names the comparable sales whose adjustments fail the smell test, and why.
- It challenges large condition adjustments with evidence.
- It brings better comparable sales, up to five, with listing details, photos and remarks that your agent pulls.
- It documents renovations: what was done, when, and what it cost.
- It questions features that don’t add up, like an adjustment for an item that doesn’t even convey with the house.
A second appraisal is the heavier tool, and it usually means a second lender, because each lender orders its own. It costs a second fee, takes time, and can come in low too. If you go that route, keep your original rate lock until the first track is truly dead. You can be locked with only one lender at a time, and floating while you wait is real market risk. Here’s how rate locks work. Sellers also don’t like cutting a price late in a deal on the strength of one disputed report, which is when a second value in hand earns its cost.
What is an appraisal waiver?
Some conventional loans can skip the appraisal when the lender’s automated system offers it. Fannie Mae calls it value acceptance and Freddie Mac calls it ACE. The system decides, not you and not me, using data it already has: the address, the home’s past sales, values nearby and recent appraisals in the neighborhood. Whether the property qualifies is one of the first things I check, and nobody knows until the loan is run.
On a purchase of a home you’ll live in or a second home, the standard waiver tops out at 90% loan-to-value, and versions that send a trained data collector to the house instead of an appraiser can go higher. It isn’t available on 2 to 4 unit homes, manufactured homes, homes priced or valued at $1,000,000 or more, or homes not yet built, and Fannie Mae doesn’t allow it with a gift of equity. Using rent from the home you’re buying to qualify can also force a full appraisal.
A waiver can disappear. If the loan amount, the loan-to-value or the credit picture changes partway through, the system can pull the waiver and require a full appraisal, which moves your timeline and can put pressure on your lock. On a refinance where the exact value matters, like getting under a mortgage insurance line, I’d usually rather order a full appraisal. In my experience a waiver’s value tends to run conservative, though not always.
My appraisal came in high. What does that mean?
It’s good news, with a limit. If you’re paying $340,000 and the house appraises at $350,000, you have $10,000 in equity on day one, about 3% of the value, and that’s all it means.
It isn’t cash you can take at closing, and it doesn’t let you put less down: your down payment is still measured on the $340,000 price, the lower of the two numbers. The real benefits come later. You’re already ahead if you ever sell, and you have more room if you ever open a home equity line of credit.
Appraisal came in low on new construction or a VA loan?
New construction and resale aren’t compared against each other, so a builder’s prices and incentives don’t set the value of a resale home down the street. If a new build comes in low, the first thing I check is whether the appraiser got the complete contract package, land and every addendum included, before anyone argues about comps. The appraisal is also tied to the property address: switch lots and it’s a new appraisal on the new lot. The financing side of building is on construction loans.
VA loans run their own appraisal process, with minimum property requirements and VA’s own path to challenge a low value, so they get their own page: VA appraisals.
If you’re up against other offers and thinking about waiving the appraisal contingency, run the appraisal gap calculator first to see what a low value could cost you.
When an appraisal comes in short, the buyers who come out fine are the ones who knew their numbers before the call and kept their contingency open while they used it.
Questions people ask me about this
What’s the difference between a home inspection and an appraisal?
The inspection checks the condition of the house for you, and the appraisal checks for the lender that the house is worth the loan. You order the inspection through your agent, and the lender’s team orders the appraisal. They are two different scorecards, so do both, and know that neither fee comes back if the deal falls apart.
Can I get a copy of my appraisal?
Yes. It’s your appraisal, not mine: on a first mortgage, federal rules (Regulation B) say the lender has to send you a copy promptly once it’s done, or at least three business days before closing, whichever comes first. Some disclosure packages include a waiver that lets you take the copy at closing instead. I tell buyers not to sign away that timing, because the report is the first thing you need if the value comes in short.
Does the seller get to see my appraisal?
The listing side usually hears only that it came in short, unless you choose to share the report. You and your agent see it first, and sharing it is often how you back up a request for a lower price. Your contract may have its own rules on this, so check with your agent.
Can my loan officer pick the appraiser or call them about the value?
No, and that’s by design. The order goes through an appraisal management company to an independent appraiser, and a loan officer pushing for a number is exactly what the rules are built to stop. If the report has real errors, the fix is a written reconsideration request through the lender.
What if my appraisal came in low on a refinance?
There’s no seller to renegotiate with, so the value simply resets your loan-to-value. That can change your mortgage insurance, your pricing, or how much cash you can take out. Your options are one reconsideration of value with better comparable sales, paying the balance down to the line you need, changing the structure, or waiting.
If I switch lenders, does my appraisal go with me?
On a conventional loan, plan on paying for a new one, because each lender orders its own. Government-backed appraisals can sometimes move with the file, so ask before you switch. Either way, a second appraisal can come in just as low as the first.
Sources
- CFPB, Regulation B, 12 CFR 1002.14, copies of appraisals
- Fannie Mae Selling Guide B4-1.3-12, appraisal quality matters (reconsideration of value)
- HUD Mortgagee Letter 2024-07, appraisal review and reconsideration of value
- Fannie Mae Selling Guide B4-1.4-10, value acceptance (appraisal waiver)
- Fannie Mae, value acceptance eligibility and LTV limits
- Freddie Mac, ACE appraisal waiver expansion to 90% LTV on purchases (effective March 24, 2025)