# Wealth building with real estate: the four-box Wheel of Wealth plan Source: https://nobullshitloans.com/wealth/wheel-of-wealth/ By Tyler Rood, Loan Officer, NMLS ID # 2064776, Edge Home Finance, LLC (NMLS ID # 891464). Updated 2026-11-09. ## The short answer The Wheel of Wealth is the four-box plan I draw with clients: buy a home at about 3 to 5 times your gross income, build six months of reserves (twelve if your pay varies), max out retirement accounts (traditional first, then Roth), and only then buy stocks, in that order. When life changes and you sell, usually every few years, the equity restarts the wheel: the minimum down payment your loan program allows on the next home, refill reserves, then retirement and stocks. Most people ask me how much house they can buy. The better question is what the house does for you after closing. My answer is the Wheel of Wealth, a wealth building plan with real estate at the center that I draw with every client on a blank sheet of paper. Four boxes, filled in one order, with the numbers I use, and a cycle that starts over each time you move. ## A wealth building plan with real estate, in four boxes Take a blank sheet and draw a cross so you have four even boxes. Upper left is your home. Upper right is reserves. Lower left is retirement. Lower right is stocks. You fill them in that order, and money only drops to the next box when the one before it is full. **Figure:** Fill the boxes in order, 1 to 4. When life changes and you sell, the equity goes back to box 1 on the next home, and the wheel turns again. Description: A sheet divided into four boxes. 1, Home: price it at 3 to 5 times your gross income. 2, Reserves: 6 months of bills, 12 if your pay varies. 3, Retirement: traditional first, max it out, then the Roth. 4, Stocks: only after retirement is maxed out. An arrow runs from box 4 back to box 1: sell after 3 to 7 years and the equity starts the next turn. | Box | What goes in it | My rule of thumb | |---|---|---| | 1. Primary residence | The home you live in | Price it at about 3 to 5 times your gross annual income | | 2. Reserves | Savings for the bills you must pay no matter what | Six months, or twelve if your pay varies | | 3. Retirement | Your employer plan, then a Roth | Traditional first and max it out, then the Roth | | 4. Stocks | Money you invest on your own | Only after the retirement accounts are maxed | I run the wheel in our consultation, after the goal review and after I have reviewed your application and documents: about 30 minutes, usually by phone, and you do the writing. I run it again right before your pre-approval letter is issued, because your numbers have usually moved. (We only pre-approve, we don't pre-qualify. Big difference: a letter is issued only after your documents and income are checked, as my [pre-approval page](https://nobullshitloans.com/buy/pre-approval/) explains.) Clients keep the sheet and bring it back. Every turn goes from a home you live in to the next one, each bought as your primary residence and genuinely moved into. ## Box 1: buy the home, priced at 3 to 5 times your income Step number one is always buy a house. Take your gross annual income, before taxes, and multiply it by 3 for the low end and by 5 for the top. At $80,000 a year, that is $240,000 to $400,000, and $400,000 is the most I would want you to buy. That is not the most a lender would lend you. I'll tell you what you can buy, but that doesn't mean you should; the debt-to-income math is on my [how much house can I afford](https://nobullshitloans.com/buy/how-much-house-can-i-afford/) page. Why the house goes first: to me a mortgage is one of the most useful debts you can carry, attached to an asset that has tended to rise in value over time, with principal you keep in every payment. Values can fall, too. Inside the 3 to 5 band, we’ll look at whether a slightly higher payment could help you stay longer as your needs change, if it fits your budget and boxes 2 and 3 still work. Price cuts both ways: a 3% gain on $250,000 is $7,500 in a year and on $400,000 it’s $12,000, and a 3% drop costs the same amounts. When a buyer wants to buy smaller to "save" $1,000 a month, I ask where that $1,000 will go. If it lands in reserves or retirement on purpose, buying smaller is a strong plan. If it just gets spent, it’s worth a second look. For scale, at an example rate of 6.5% on a 30-year fixed loan, $1,000 a month of principal and interest carries about $158,000 of loan, before taxes and insurance. The counterweight is real. In my files, the average debt-to-income ratio lands around 45%, so most buyers borrow near the top of what they qualify for. That is why saving after closing is hard, and why more house only makes sense if box 2 gets filled. ## Box 2: six months of reserves, twelve if your pay varies First, what a "month" means. Add up everything you must pay every month after you move in: the new housing payment plus every other monthly debt (car, credit cards, student loans). Groceries and gas are not in it; the checking rule below handles those. On a steady salary, hold six of those months. On commission, bonus-heavy or self-employed income, hold twelve. The reason: I never want you to sell scared. With thin savings, a job loss or a slow quarter pushes you into a bad decision. With a year behind you, you can wait for a good one. **Worked example: Reserves on a $3,500 must-pay month** - New housing payment: $2,500 - plus Car payment: $450 - plus Credit card minimums: $150 - plus Student loan payment: $400 - equals: One must-pay month: $3,500 - times Months to hold (steady salary): 6 - equals: Reserve target: $21,000 Note: On commission or self-employed income, hold 12 months: $42,000. _Hypothetical household, rounded._ Three months is the floor; the full six or twelve is the target. Rerun the number whenever you add a loan or a property, because the target grows with your bills. Lender reserve rules are separate; my [cash to close](https://nobullshitloans.com/buy/cash-to-close/) page covers those. Reserves come before furniture. Spend the cushion on a living room set and there is nothing left when the water heater goes. It took me over two years to furnish my first house. With six months behind you, you don't have to get into more debt to stay out of debt. **My take** Most first-time buyers don't make it past box two. Start it the day you close: set your checking floor and the monthly sweep before your first mortgage payment is due. ## The checking account rule: 1.5 times your bills on the 1st While you build reserves, your checking account gets a floor: a set balance that has to be there on the 1st of every month. Mine is 150% of your must-pay month, rounded up. The extra half covers everyday spending: utilities, insurance, gas and groceries. 1. On the 1st, check your balance against the floor. 2. Anything above the floor moves to savings, until the reserves are full. 3. If you are under the floor, pull the difference from savings. That pull is your signal that you overspent last month. 4. Once the reserves are full, stop topping up savings and raise your retirement contribution instead (box 3). With a $3,500 must-pay month, the floor is $5,250, rounded up to $5,500. If the balance on the 1st is $6,600, $1,100 goes to savings. If it is $4,500, you pull $1,000 from savings and figure out where it went. Not a dollar more, not a dollar less. Why so strict? If people see money, they spend it. Put bills on auto-pay from one account and split each paycheck by percentage across bills, spending and savings, so the system does the thinking. ## Box 3: retirement, traditional first, then Roth Retirement starts only when the reserves are full. From then on, raise your payroll contribution so the money above your checking floor never lands in checking at all. One wrinkle: a traditional contribution comes out before tax, so raising it by $1,000 a month lowers your take-home pay by less than $1,000. To soak up $1,000 a month of overflow, the contribution has to go up by more. In my example it is about $1,250. Your real number depends on your tax bracket. My order: the employer plan first (never leave a match on the table) and max it out, then the Roth. Traditional, then Roth, then stocks. If reserves dip, pause contributions for two or three months to rebuild them, then turn them back on. ## Box 4: stocks, last Only after the traditional and the Roth are maxed does money go into an investment account of your own. This is the box I hand off: what to buy is a question for a financial adviser, and I use one myself, because my business is mortgages. Investing carries risk. I'm not a CPA or a financial adviser. The Wheel of Wealth is a planning order, not tax or investment advice. Contribution limits, Roth versus traditional, and taxes on selling a home go to your CPA. ## Why it's a wheel: sell, reset and buy again every few years My planning range for a first home is 3 to 7 years, because that is when life changes: a raise, a baby, a new job, kids starting school. When you sell, the appreciation and the principal you paid come back as cash, and that cash restarts the wheel: the minimum down payment your loan program allows on the next home, closing costs, refill the reserves, then retirement, then stocks. Every move is a financial reset. The first one is the hard one. After that, it starts rolling. **Worked example: One turn of the wheel: a $400,000 starter home sold after 5 years** - Sale price (3.5% a year growth): $475,000 - minus Selling costs (about 6%): $28,500 - minus Loan payoff (started at $380,000): $355,700 - equals: Cash from the sale: $90,800 - minus Next home: 5% down on $500,000: $25,000 - minus Closing costs (about 2.5%): $12,500 - minus Six months of reserves ($4,000 a month): $24,000 - equals: Left for retirement, then stocks: $29,300 Note: First loan: 5% down at an example rate of 6.5% on a 30-year fixed. Selling and closing costs are my planning numbers. How a lump sum moves into retirement accounts within the yearly limits is a CPA question. _Hypothetical, rounded. Not a projection of any home's value._ **Chart: Where $90,800 from the sale goes on the next turn.** Only $25,000 goes down on the next home. The rest pays closing costs, refills six months of reserves and leaves $29,300 for retirement, then stocks. | | Part | Amount | |---|---|---| | Cash from selling the $400,000 starter home after 5 years | Box 1: down payment, 5% on $500,000 | $25,000 | | Cash from selling the $400,000 starter home after 5 years | Box 1: closing costs | $12,500 | | Cash from selling the $400,000 starter home after 5 years | Box 2: six months of reserves | $24,000 | | Cash from selling the $400,000 starter home after 5 years | Boxes 3 and 4: retirement, then stocks | $29,300 | | Cash from selling the $400,000 starter home after 5 years | Total | $90,800 | _Sold at 3.5% a year growth after 5 years. First loan $380,000, 5% down at an example rate of 6.5% on a 30-year fixed. Next home $500,000 with 5% down and closing costs of about 2.5%, reserves at $4,000 a month. Selling and closing costs are my planning numbers. Not a projection of any home's value. Hypothetical, not a quote._ The move I steer people away from is the equity dump: pouring the whole sale into the next down payment. At an example rate of 6.5%, each $1,000 of extra down payment cuts principal and interest by about $6.32 a month. Put $100,000 more down and you save about $632 a month, which takes about 158 months, a little over 13 years, to earn back. That same $100,000 could have filled boxes 2 through 4. **Watch out** The worst spot is a low payment with no money behind you. A big down payment that drains your savings feels safe right up until a job loss or a new roof. The wheel assumes you sell. If your rate is low and the house would rent for more than its payment, keeping it can beat selling: that is the [Blue Collar House Hack](https://nobullshitloans.com/wealth/blue-collar-house-hack/), and the keep-or-sell math is on my page about [renting out your current home](https://nobullshitloans.com/wealth/rent-out-your-house/). ## Is buying a house a good way to build wealth? Yes, if you treat the house as a vessel for wealth and not the whole plan. Equity builds two ways: appreciation, and the principal in each payment, which is effectively a deposit into savings. But equity by itself pays for nothing. You have to be able to reach it, by selling or borrowing against it. And with all your money in one house, you are all in on one asset, so the wheel moves gains out into reserves, retirement and investments. Plan with conservative numbers. For your ZIP code I pull a local report card (recent history, a forecast and the long-run average), and I won't use the hot five-year number. I plan on about 3.5% a year and show a 3% case next to it. At 3.5%, a $400,000 home is worth about $475,000 in year five and about $564,000 in year ten. Those are planning assumptions, not forecasts. Optimism leads to disappointment. ## Same wheel, different first conversation: conventional and FHA The order of the boxes never changes. What changes is how I frame box 1, because the two loans do different jobs. The loan itself is picked from your numbers (credit, down payment, debts), not from a label. On a conventional loan, box 1 is a leverage play. Put about 5% down, accept the mortgage insurance (PMI is not the devil), and keep your cash working in boxes 2 and 3. That insurance is not forever: under federal rules you can ask to cancel it once your balance reaches 80% of the home's original value, and it ends on its own when your scheduled balance hits 78%, if you are current. Here is [how mortgage insurance works and comes off](https://nobullshitloans.com/buy/mortgage-insurance/). On an FHA loan, box 1 is about access and certainty. FHA lets you buy with 3.5% down if your credit score is 580 or higher, and the first win is getting to the closing table on a payment you can carry. The wealth part starts the day after closing, with box 2. One trade-off to know: with less than 10% down, FHA's annual mortgage insurance stays for the life of the loan. Here is [FHA vs conventional side by side](https://nobullshitloans.com/loans/fha-vs-conventional/). Grab a sheet of paper and draw the cross. Fill in what you can: your income times 3 and times 5, your must-pay month times six, your checking floor. The blanks you can't fill in are the questions worth asking. ## Frequently asked questions ### Should I max out my 401(k) or Roth before I buy a house? In my order the house comes first, then six months of reserves, then retirement. While you save to buy, I would still never leave an employer match on the table. The full max-out push starts once the home is bought and the reserves are full, and which account type fits you is a question for your CPA. ### Should I pay extra on my mortgage to pay it off early? Usually not, in my view. Your house appreciates at the same rate whether you owe nothing or a lot, and once extra money goes to the bank it stops working for you. A paid-off house feels better, but it does not work better. Close to retirement the answer can change, and that is a conversation for your financial adviser. ### Where does paying off credit card debt fit in the wheel? High-interest debt goes after reserves and before retirement. Reserves still come first, then the expensive debt gets attacked with the money that would have gone to retirement, and retirement starts once it is gone. A low-rate car loan just gets paid on schedule. ### Where should I keep my reserves? In a savings account separate from checking, ideally one that pays interest, so you have to move money on purpose to touch it. Your six months (twelve on variable pay) is the target, and in my plan it is also the cap. Past that, the extra goes to retirement instead of sitting in the bank. ### Does the Wheel of Wealth work with a VA loan? Yes. With no down payment required, I have VA buyers save as if they were putting money down, then keep that cash as reserves. Three months is the floor and six is the target. The full VA version is on my page about [building wealth with a VA loan](/veterans/build-wealth-with-va/). ## Sources - [CFPB Bulletin 2015-03, private mortgage insurance cancellation and termination](https://files-prod.consumerfinance.gov/f/documents/201508_cfpb_compliance-bulletin_private-mortgage-insurance-cancellation-and-te_jpbfQUl.pdf) - [HUD Mortgagee Letter 2026-11, FHA credit score requirements](https://www.hud.gov/sites/default/files/hudclips/documents/2026-11hsgml.pdf) - [HUD Handbook 4000.1, FHA Single Family Housing Policy Handbook, Update 18](https://www.hud.gov/sites/default/files/Housing/documents/40001-hsgh-Update-18.pdf) ## Disclosures Individual Originator: Tyler Rood, Loan Officer, NMLS ID # 2064776 (www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org). Licensed in NC, PA, TX and VA. Edge Home Finance, LLC | NMLS ID # 891464 | www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org. Licensed in all U.S. states & D.C., EXCEPT New York. Edge Home Finance, LLC is a mortgage broker, not a direct lender or creditor. Virginia Broker License MC-7006. North Carolina Mortgage Broker License B-201539. Pennsylvania Mortgage Broker License 81041. Texas: Mortgage Company License, Department of Savings and Mortgage Lending. Numbers on this page are illustrations, not offers. Any rate shown on this site is an example. Rates may change or may not be available at the time of loan commitment or lock-in. This is general education, not financial, tax or investment advice. Consult your own financial advisor and tax professional. Home values can go down as well as up. Edge Home Finance, LLC is a private mortgage broker and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or acting on behalf of or at the direction of the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs (VA), the Federal Housing Administration (FHA), the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), or any other government agency. We do business in accordance with the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Credit Opportunity Act.